One year,and a real conversation.
Every pack we build carries a one-year limited warranty. Before any of that matters, we want to talk to you. Most of what gets reported as a dead battery turns out to be the charging system, and we would rather help you find that than swap a pack that was never faulty.
What is covered
One year, materials and workmanship.
Twelve months from the date of purchase, on every chemistry we build — sodium ion, LTO and NMC. If a pack is defective in materials or workmanship within that year, we repair or replace it. Keep your order number, and register your pack after install — a registered pack with install photos on file makes a claim considerably faster.
What is not covered
Nearly all of it comes down to voltage.
None of this is fine print for its own sake. These are the things that actually kill packs, and we would rather you knew them on day one than at the end of a claim.
Undercharging LTO
Sustained charging below 15.2V damages an LTO pack, and premature failure caused by undercharging is not covered. This is the single most common way people kill an otherwise 40,000-cycle battery.
Charging above the ceiling
15.5V on the KILO HP line, 16.2V on LTO, 16.6V on THE DON. Over-voltage above the rated maximum is not covered. Set your regulator, then verify it with a meter rather than trusting it.
Deep discharge
Running a pack below its recommended floor. THE DON has no BMS cutoff at all — on that pack you are the protection, and a voltmeter is not optional.
Physical and water damage
Dropped, crushed, punctured or submerged. Take a damaged pack out of service even if it still reads fine, and contact us before you do anything else with it.
Short circuits
A dropped wrench across the terminals. At the current these packs deliver it is over before you can react — cover the terminals during install and take your rings off.
Opening or modifying the pack
Opening the case, changing busbars or the balancer, or wiring it outside what the installation guide calls for.
Mixed chemistries on one bank
Sodium and LTO windows barely overlap. On the same bus, one of them is always being charged wrong — and the damage that follows is not a defect.
Before you claim
Two tests, and we need both.
A genuinely faulty pack and a healthy pack in a car with a charging problem look identical from the driver’s seat. These two tests tell them apart, and between them they take one evening. Do them before you contact us and we can usually give you an answer in one reply instead of five.
The charging system, with a clamp meter.
A pack can only be as good as what is feeding it. This tells you what your alternator is actually doing, rather than what the dash thinks it is doing.
- Voltage at the pack terminals, engine running, system idle. Not at the dash, not at the alternator — at the posts. That number has to sit inside your pack’s charging window.
- Zero the clamp before you use it. On DC amps, with the jaws closed and nothing through them. A DC clamp that has not been zeroed will read high or low all evening and send you chasing a fault that is not there.
- Clamp the alternator’s main output lead, engine running, system idle. You should see charge current going into the bank, tapering off as it fills. No current into a pack that is not full is the answer on its own.
- Clamp it again with the system playing hard. This tells you whether the alternator is carrying the load or the bank is, and whether it recovers between hits or falls further behind.
- Everything off, key out — clamp the main positive lead to the pack. That is your parasitic draw. Anything beyond a small standing draw is the vehicle pulling your pack down overnight, not the battery going flat on its own.
- Measure at the amplifier under load too. If the amp sees meaningfully less than the pack does, you have a cable, lug or ground problem — see why voltage drops on the hit.
Standing voltage overnight, disconnected.
This is the one that separates the pack from the car. Out of the vehicle, nothing else can be blamed and nothing else can be draining it.
- Charge the pack to its recommended voltage. Bench or in the car, either is fine, as long as it finishes full.
- Disconnect it completely. Negative first, then positive. Both leads clear of the terminals with nothing touching them — if it is still bolted to the car, the test proves nothing.
- Let it rest an hour, then write down the voltage and the time. That first hour sheds surface charge. A reading taken straight off the charger flatters the pack and ruins the comparison.
- Leave it overnight — twelve hours or more. Somewhere that is not freezing. Cold reads differently and muddies the result.
- Read it again at roughly the same temperature and write that down as well, with the time.
Reading the result
If it holds, the pack is healthy. Expect a slight drop — the active balancer draws a small amount continuously the whole time it is connected to the cells, and that never stops. A pack that holds overnight but dies in the car is telling you the fault is in the vehicle: parasitic draw, charging voltage, or a ground. If it falls away on its own, send us both readings and the hours between them. That single pair of numbers is the most useful thing you can give us.
Making a claim
How it works.
- You contact us and tell us what is happening. Pack model, order number, install date, your charging voltage measured at the posts, and the readings from both tests above. Photos of the install — placement, wiring, fuse — help more than you would think.
- We troubleshoot it with you. Not as a hurdle — we genuinely want to know what is going on. We build these, so every failure teaches us something. A good share of these end at a regulator setting or a bad ground, and you keep the pack you already have.
- If it is the pack, we authorise a return. You will get return instructions and authorisation information from us first. Anything sent back without that is not accepted.
- We inspect it and make it right. Repair or replacement, and we will tell you plainly which one and why.
Do not ship anything back before we ask
Contact us first, every time. A pack returned without authorisation will not be accepted, and lithium cannot simply be dropped at a counter — it needs correct packaging and paperwork that we will walk you through.
Never ship a damaged pack
Dropped, crushed, punctured, swollen or vented — do not put it in a box. Contact us and we will advise on safe handling and disposal where you are.